Thursday, December 24, 2009
Every journey begins with a single step, as every surf movie begins with a single wave. In October this year I pointed my camera out to sea for the first time. Ethan Wilson takes off on a mushy right, milks a little turn as he waits for the wave to hit the inside bank, races down the line and throws up this air to reverse. Nailed. With the first keeper in the bag I know the journey has begun.